Eastern Erie Canal

September 9

Eastbound on the ‘downslope’ from the Oneida region the character of the Erie Canal begins to change. In this area the canal becomes confluent with the Mohawk River. The natural river meanders on and through the canal.

Among the hazards to navigation are trees, some quite large, in various stages of submersion which one must be alert for. Hitting a submerged log, known as a deadhead, end on could do significant damage to a boat.

Other hazards include shoaling causing dredging crews to be at work constantly. The dredges themselves can pose challenges as was the case today when a small cruise ship was maneuvering upbound as Whisper was threading the needle downbound. Guess who won!

As the canal descends into the Mohawk Valley there are a number of places where the canal is above the surrounding landscape, requiring locks to raise and lower boats in steps. The biggest step is Lock 17 which, at 40’ elevation change, rivals the locks of the Welland Canal.

Approaching Lock 17 the canal becomes a channel through solid granite, traversing a mountainside above the city of Little Falls. One begins to appreciate the elevation change when you go from 4 – 5 story buildings whose ground floors are at canal level to seeing over the rooftops of similar sized buildings downstream.

Another feature of Lock 17 is that its east door raises up, allowing you to pass under, instead of opening and closing like a set French doors as at other locks.

Speaking of French, my traveling companions today are from Toulouse, traveling towards the Caribbean on a multi-million dollar Beneteau motor yacht. They speak very little English, creating problems for the lock masters and for me as I maneuver around them. Whisper is not the most maneuverable of boats which they did not seem to appreciate. But they redeemed themselves in the form of a pleasant glass of wine and limited conversation, my French being worse than their English.

Deeper into the Mohawk Valley the canal and the river become a single broad highway, the hills rising higher on each side. This would be truly lovely except that one side of the narrow valley is dominated by the NY State Thruway while the other side is a major east-west rail freight corridor. The sounds of traffic and trains echo from the hillsides destroying the illusion of peace and serenity.

To put things in some perspective: The cars on the NY State Thruway can travel in 5 minutes the distance Whisper travels in an hour. In an hour, those same vehicles will have traveled farther than Whisper can travel in a long, hard day underway. But I am seeing the things they miss. I am being given a lesson in American history and geography the likes of which few ever experience.

The railroad must be a major east west trunk line, as every few minutes heavy freights pass, going in both directions. Some of these trains are several miles long carrying containers stacked 2 high. On the highway opposite is an endless stream of 18 wheelers, a disproportionate number being Wal Mart trucks. Recessionary times do not seem to have slowed the wheels of commerce.

As Whisper approaches the intersection of the Erie Canal and the Hudson River she is faced with the Flight Locks, a series of 5 locks that, in less than 2 miles will drop her 190 feet. This is the highest drop over the shortest distance of any canal in the world. I will admit to being intimidated. But after transiting over 30 locks without mishap, I suspect we will survive these as well.

From there it is on down the Hudson River and a visit with my daughter Kit. That will be a most welcome interlude.